Hard bowl, soft core: at first glance, Lichtenberg may seem a little bulky, quite large, gray and coarse. But it's worth taking a closer look! The easternmost district of the city offers country life, classicist pomp and a Nordic coastal feel.
What's breakfast like in Lichtenberg?
HOW DO YOU HAVE BREAKFAST IN LICHTENBERG?
Lichtenberg is, in a small way, Charlottenburg’s rough-and-tumble sister. Not only are the Zoo and the Tierpark related, but the two palaces—Charlottenburg and Friedrichsfelde—also share personalities and history. While the Zoo station served as the gateway to Westberlin , the former eastern part of Berlin was accessed via the Lichtenberg station, which was enormous at the time. Reason enough, then, for KPM—a native of Charlottenburg—to take a closer look around the area.
Well fortified for the day, the native Lichtenberger usually starts with breakfast at home. Newspaper, sandwich, egg and coffee. District tourists, however, can best fortify themselves for an extended tour with a bagel, waffles or cake at Nadia & Kosta. The small café is located in the romantic Kaskelkiez or Victoriastadt district, once a historic working-class neighborhood with beautiful Wilhelminian-style houses that make the area an open-air museum.
Friedrichsfelde Palace in Tierpark Berlin
We then head across Rummelsburger Bucht to Dark Matter, a former factory that has now become a hip, deep black light and sound gallery. If you prefer something less digital and more historical, hop on your bike and ride high to the Stasi Museum and visit the archives in the former headquarters of the secret police. And while you're there, you can hop over to Pankow: Just 15 minutes away is a real gem of Berlin's architectural history: the Lemke House by Mies van der Rohe, a wonderfully functional box right on the Weißensee, which was built in the 1930s for just 16,000 marks.
If you’re feeling hungry around lunchtime on your way back to Lichtenberg, the best route is via the Dong Xuan Center, where you can enjoy a bowl of pho, a curry, or Peking duck at one of the wholesale market’s more than 250 vendors. Once you’ve refueled, take a leisurely stroll through the zoo to Friedrichsfelde Palace, which was acquired in 1785 by Peter Biron, Duke of Kurland (yes, THE very same duke who commissioned our “KURLAND ” service ) and expanded in the Neoclassical style.
But the district is most exciting at the weekend. In the Lichtenberg villages of Malchow and Wartenberg, you feel like you're in the countryside, while the Karlshorst harness racing track is (almost) like Ascot. That is, unless Berlin's biggest flea market is taking place on the grounds, so that traders instead of horses are doing their rounds. The best way to round off the day is with a view of the water in the new Hafenküche restaurant, where Mathias Brandweiner is the sommelier, who - as luck would have it - used to work in KPM production.
For the perfect start to your Lichtenberg adventure, there's the spring-yellow Lichtenberg mug, the newest member of the Colors of Berlin family . We've taken the iconic mug from the BERLIN service designed by Enzo Mari together with the designers at KPM in 1996 and honored the different districts with their own unique color schemes. So you could live in Munich but enjoy your morning pick-me-up as if you were in Mitte, have your afternoon coffee in Tiergarten, and drink your evening tea in Lichtenberg. Or which is your favorite district?
Colors of BERLIN breakfast cup
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